The Jade Skirt has a few steps in the construction that are not exactly difficult, but that could do with the help of some visual explanation. The skirt-sandwich that you make in order to get perfectly enclosed seam allowances is one of them. In the video below I’ll show you how to sew the front to the back of the Jade Skirt. This is Step 5 in the instructions.
It’s all nice and well if your fit in one size column, but the reality for the majority of women is that they span multiple columns. I know I do; my bust, waist and hip usually have a column all for themselves. Most Indie patterns are ‘nested’, which means that the different sizes are drafted in such a way that you can easily draw a line from one size to another. The Jade pattern is also nested for this purpose. However, the front piece has kind of a zig-zag outline, which makes drawing a neat line a bit difficult. In this post I’ll show you the easiest way of drafting between sizes on the Jade skirt front piece, taking my own adjustments as an example.
Sewing the Onyx cuffs is not the most difficult step technically, but the construction method might be new to you. The cuffs are designed as separate pattern pieces to get a better fit with the sleeves. You know those T-shirts with rolled up cuffs that stand at a different angle than the sleeves? Those ‘wings’ are a pet peeve of mine, and it’s what you get when you roll up a tapered sleeve. The Onyx cuffs have a zig zag edge and thus fit their sleeve perfectly. To better understand the sewing process, we’ve made this tutorial. We’ll follow Step 5 of the Onyx instructions.
Probably the most unconventional technique used to make a Jade skirt is folding the front piece. To make this origami a little easier to grasp we made a video!
Today I’m going to show you my favorite way to attach a neckband to a garment. This is meant for stretch fabrics like jersey and french terry. The most common method is to divide the neckband in four, divide the neckline in four, match them up and then stretch the neckband while you sew. I also used this method in my Zircon instructions because it’s the one people are most familiar with. For this method the pattern designer provides a pattern piece for the neckband that is the right length, with a 10% or 15% stretch calculated in the pattern.
Fitting trousers is different from other garments mainly because of the crotch area – there’s just a lot going on there: four seams intersecting, one cilinder becoming two, a back that needs more room than a front. All kinds of fit issues are possible: different butt shapes, different thigh circumferences, a long or short rise, even different pubis bone shapes. Fortunately, with the Amber Trousers the only two areas you need to pay attention to are the fit of the yokes and the crotch. The legs are not close fitting so it’s not likely you’ll have to do much fitting there. In this post I’ll give you some tips on how to go about fitting the Amber Trousers and I’ll list some good resources too.
Welt pockets are not a common feature on sweatshirts, but I love the structure they add to the Jasper Sweater/Dress. They give a polished look to the design and they’re not so hard once you understand the process. They are considered one of the more tricky techniques to master, but that just makes it more satisfying to add to your skill set! So no need to worry, if you need more words and photo’s to understand this process, that’s what you get in this post.