The Jade Skirt has a few steps in the construction that are not exactly difficult, but that could do with the help of some visual explanation. In the video below I’ll show you how to attach the lining to the front piece of the Jade Skirt. This is Step 3 in the instructions.
Last week we talked about how having a large fabric and/or pattern stash can make us feel guilty and embarrassed. Moreover, if you lose track of what you have, your large stash is not creating opportunities but inhibiting your creativity. I listed steps for you to follow if you want to do something about this: eliminate temptation, catalogue your stash and catalogue your patterns. Check out the comment section too, there’s some great examples of how others catalogue their stash and patterns. If you have already started: yay you! If you haven’t and you’re waiting for the happy ending: that’s what we’ll talk about today. Now that you have easy acces to all of your fabrics and patterns, let’s make some sewing plans!
As I explained last week, Jasper Sweater/Dress comes in both B-cup and C-cup, depending on the size you choose. Because the fit through the bust is not as loose as with other sweaters, it’s very well possible that you’d still need to do a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA). I’m going to show you how to do this on the Jasper in two posts. First we’ll look at how to determine if you need an FBA and by how much. I’ll also show how to do a minimal FBA if you only need 1″ (2,5 cm) or less extra room. In the next post we’ll show how to do a proper FBA on the Jasper.
The Jade comes in two versions, mini and midi. I like the mini a lot, but it’s a bit on the short side because I’m 5’10”, and the pattern is drafted for a height of 5’7″. When I make the mini, I like to add a half inch to an inch (1-2,5 cm). Due to the way the front pattern piece is folded, lengthening or shortening this pattern piece is not as straightforward as just shifting slashing and spreading along the middle, or even at the bottom. So in this post I’ll show you how to adjust the length of the Jade front piece.
A full bust adjustment must be one of the most common adjustments for people with breasts to make. Some pattern companies include multiple bodice pattern pieces with their patterns, but in most cases the front piece will be drafted for a certain cup size. In that case, you will need to adjust the front pattern piece to fit a larger bust. A look at how your RTW clothing fits you might already give you a clue. Are your button downs gaping? Your wrap tops falling open? Tight across the bust? Gaping armholes? Good in the bust but too large in the shoulders? Then you probably need one. Especially in woven garments, doing a full bust adjustment makes a huge improvement on the fit. And a better fitting garment will make you love that garment more.
One of the Jasper product samples is made with a fun striped sweatshirt fleece. I had envisioned this one and was eager to bring it to life, but at the same time I didn’t look forward to matching the stripes on the princess seam bodice. In the end it wasn’t that hard, just a bit of extra prep work. If you want a stripy Jasper too, no need to fear! In this post I’ll show you how to match the stripes in the most important places.
Sewing the Onyx cuffs is not the most difficult step technically, but the construction method might be new to you. The cuffs are designed as separate pattern pieces to get a better fit with the sleeves. You know those T-shirts with rolled up cuffs that stand at a different angle than the sleeves? Those ‘wings’ are a pet peeve of mine, and it’s what you get when you roll up a tapered sleeve. The Onyx cuffs have a zig zag edge and thus fit their sleeve perfectly. To better understand the sewing process, we’ve made this tutorial. We’ll follow Step 5 of the Onyx instructions.