Ginger Jeans

Ginger Jeans – Preparing for Round 2

Now that I’ve worn my first pair of Gingers a lot these past weeks, it’s time to see how they’ve held up. I want to compare them to my RTW jeans to see if they are better and what further adjustments need to be made. I’ll compare pocket placement and show you what pattern adjustments in preparation of my second pair of Gingers. So if you have wide hips, a small waist and a flat butt, this post is for you :) I’m not sure what denim I’ll use next. I have this wild idea of making a black pair and then waxing them. Talk about rock ‘n roll!

The best fitting pair of jeans I ever had were Nudie Jeans. I’m not sure which model, but they were low-rise, skinny, and had no stretch. They were super tight. They cut off the bloodsupply to my legs when sitting in certain positions. Now I understand why they fit me so well: RTW jeans are always made for bigger butts than mine. The only way to get rid of that extra fabric was to buy them really tight. I loved them nonetheless, the denim was delightfully heavy and didn’t sag after weeks of wear. Sadly, they’ve died now. I tried repairing them a few times but I couldn’t keep up any more.

Here’s a comparison between my Gingers and my most worn pair at the moment, my second pair of Nudie Jeans. I was slightly disappointed with these Skinny Lins. They have a bit of stretch and are not as tight, meaning that extra fabric was showing again. And seeing these photo’s I am only now realising that the pants I wear the most don’t actually look that great. That is dangerously close to a mom butt.

Another favourite pair are my Kuyichi Lisette jeans. I’ve had those for at least 7 years, and they show hardly any wear. I’ve always loved bell bottom jeans, I guess the 70’s are my fashion era. I remember finding my first bell bottom jeans, Wranglers at a military dump store back in the 90’s when everyone was wearing straight leg Cars. I thought they were so cool. If I’d have horcruxes, one of them would be these jeans. They are the light ones above. I have always regretted not buying them a size smaller. The other ones are my first skinny pair, black G-stars. They are only my first skinny pair because I wanted black jeans and these were the only ones they had.

Of these four pocket placements, I think the Kuyichi’s are the best. Despite the bagginess, they don’t make my butt look flat. So while the placement on my Gingers is good, they should be bigger towards the side seams. I’m also seeing some extra fabric above the pockets, in all four photo’s. A swayback after all, perhaps? I’ve used Pants for Real People to determine my fitting issues and solutions. Colette also has a helpful Pants fitting cheat sheet with tutorials.

Ginger fitting alterations

While fitting my first pair, I made the adjustments in the red lines. So that means curving the front crotch, and taking in the inseam. I’ve also taken in the side seams a bit. For my next pair I’ve also lengthened the crotch with 1/4″ (0,5 cm).

Ginger fitting alterations
Ginger fitting alterations

For the back, the red lines indicate the adjustments while fitting. I have suspicion that wedge out of the back needs to be bigger, but we’ll see. I’ve used the lengthen/shorten line to shorten the back rise by 1/4″ (0,5 cm) because there’s just more fabric there than I need. A swayback after all, perhaps? There’s still quite a bit of extra fabric despite scooping out the back crotch already.   I’ve shortened the waistband in accordance with the back yoke, and I’ve overlapped in five places to make it more curved.

Ginger Jeans

So now the verdict on my first pair of jeans: it’s mixed. I love the colour, the black topstitching and the fact that they make me look as good (or in some cases better) than my RTW pairs. What annoys me is that they are too short and the waistband is way too wide. So I have to wear it with a belt, which in turn looks good, so it’s allright. Because the fit is allright and I love the look, I do wear them a lot. It makes me feel badass, and I keep waiting for people to ask me if I made them. People used to ask me if I made my jeans all the time when they learned that I sew, and now I can finally say yes. Let’s say they’re a good start – may the next pair be perfect!

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  1. It’s funny that you are writing about this now, since I am working on a series of pairs of pants – made the Gingers and they were pretty good. I have a flat butt, combined with full front thighs and full calves (I love my bike!) so the alterations can be legendary. But what has occurred to me lately is what if we looked at fitting bums the same way we look at fitting boobs? Find the apex (so to speak) and dart out shaping from there? I don’t know if it would actually work, but it’s been wandering about my brain. Ideas?

    1. Interesting thought, Mary. You’d have to think about what you’d do with the dart though. I think the 3 dimensional quality of the crotch makes it more complicated, it’s not just a mountain on a plain so to speak. Hmm, I’ll have to think on this :)

    1. I didn’t do this adjustment, I just scooped out the back crotch. Thanks for sharing this one! I wonder though – if you just scoop out the back crotch and overlap the lengthen/shorten line, don’t you get the same result? Except that the side seam doesn’t move. It might be more accurate to do it Ann’s way because you keep the original lines of the pattern.

  2. Oh, horcruxes, ha ha.
    I’m a ways off from making any jeans, but I’ve recently purchased your jasper pattern and am going to start on it soon. I’m happy I stumbled across your site! Good luck with pair #2

    1. Thanks Kate! I don’t know why I waited so long with jeans, you really don’t have to be an advanced sewist to make them.

  3. My first attempt at pants is still a couple months out, but I’m considering the Gingers for fall. I agree the pockets need to be widened out toward the side seams, but also perhaps lengthened just a tad toward the waist too?

    1. Thanks for your suggestion – probably, yes, to keep the proportion right. I hope I can find the right spot again, last time I just put them somewhere between the markers.

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